Development and characterization of photoprotective nanoemulsions containing Babassu (Orbignya phalerata Mart. ) lipophilic extract

Abstract Oil-in-water photoprotective nanoemulsions (NEs) were developed using Babassu (BBS) lipophilic extract, nonionic surfactants, and low concentrations of organic sunscreens by ultrasonic processing. BBS extract was chosen due to its suitable physicochemical properties (acidity index, peroxide index, refraction index, and relative density) and predominance of saturated fatty acids, identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), which promote biological activities and high oxidative stability. NEs were characterized by mean droplet size, morphology, polydispersity index (PdI), pH, and organoleptic properties, and the physical stability of the NEs was evaluated for 120 days at room temperature. The sun protection factor (SPF) was determined, and the photostability and in vitro cytotoxicity assays were performed for NEs. All NEs remained stable for 120 days, with a droplet size <150 nm and a monomodal distribution profile. The pH values were compatible with the skin's pH. NE3 showed a spherical morphology, with a mean droplet size of 125.15 ± 0.16 nm and PdI of 0.145 ± 0.032. NE3 containing BBS extract and sunscreens presented an SPF of 35.5 ± 3.0, was photostable after 6 h of radiation and was non-cytotoxic to fibroblast cells. Thus, NE3 could be considered a promising formulation for developing synergic plant-extract sunscreen photoprotective products for the market

Avaliação da composição e rotulagem de fotoprotetores labiais comercializados em farmácias / Evaluation of the composition and labeling of lip photo protectors marketed in pharmacies

Introdução: os efeitos deletérios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) sobre os tecidos labiais podem desencadear diversas lesões, inclusive de caráter maligno. A utilização de produtos fotoprotetores tem sido a melhor opção contra os efeitos nocivos dessa radiação. Diversas marcas de fotoprotetores labiais (FPL) estão disponíveis no mercado, onde o consumo é diretamente influenciado por qualidade e preço. Objetivo: analisar e comparar FPLs disponíveis em farmácias quanto à composição, ao preço e às características de rotulagem, segundo regulamentações da ANVISA. Metodologia: foi realizado estudo descritivo, que avaliou FPLs, quanto a FPS, indicação, constituintes químicos, FPUVA, preço e rótulo. Informações sobre as substâncias presentes e suas funções foram obtidas no INCI (Comissão Europeia), e os filtros solares foram identificados na INN (Organização Mundial da Saúde). As avaliações de rotulagem foram baseadas nas Resoluções da Diretoria Colegiada da ANVISA de nº 30/12, nº 7/15 e nº 69/16. Resultados: dezessete FPLs foram avaliados. Cinco apresentaram FPS 15; três, FPS 20; seis, FPS 30; e três, FPS 50. Dez filtros UV foram identificados, estando o Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate presente em maior número de FPLs. Doze produtos informaram ter proteção UVA. As características dos rótulos se encontravam dentro das determinações da ANVISA, na grande maioria dos casos. Houve alta variação do preço. Conclusão: a partir deste estudo, foi possível conhecer mais sobre a composição e as características dos FPL, principalmente sobre FPS e FPUVA, bem como se estão de acordo com as normas estabelecidas pela ANVISA, propiciando um maior conhecimento dos produtos que estão sendo comercializados.

Introduction: the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on lip tissues can trigger several lesions, including malignant ones. The use of photoprotective products has been the best option against the harmful effects of this radiation. Several brands of lip sunscreens (FPL) are available on the market, where consumption is directly influenced by quality and price. Objective: to analyze and compare SPFs available in pharmacies in terms of composition, price and labeling characteristics, according to ANVISA regulations. Methodology: a descriptive study was carried out, which evaluated FPLs, in terms of SPF, indication, chemical constituents, PPD, price and label. Information on the substances present and their functions were obtained from the INCI (European Commission), and the sunscreens were identified from the INN (World Health Organization). The labeling evaluations were based on the Resolutions of the Collegiate Board of Directors of ANVISA No. 30/12, No. 7/15 and No. 69/16. Results: seventeen FPLs were evaluated. Five had SPF 15; three, SPF 20; six, SPF 30; and three, SPF 50. Ten UV filters were identified, with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate present in the highest number of FPLs. Twelve products reported having UV protection. The characteristics of the labels were within the determinations of ANVISA, in the vast majority of cases. There was a high price variation. Conclusion: from this study, it was possible to know more about the composition and characteristics of FPL, mainly about SPF and UV, as well as whether they are in accordance with the standards established by ANVISA, providing a greater knowledge of the products that are being marketed.

Atividade fotoprotetora e antioxidante de compostos fenólicos: uma revisão sistemática de testes in vitro / Photoprotective and antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds: a systematic review of in vitro tests / Actividad fotoprotectora y antioxidante de compuestos fenólicos: una revisión sistemática de ensayos in vitro

RESUMO Introdução: Os compostos fenólicos, devido a sua estrutura química, possuem a capacidade de absorver a energia ultravioleta e reduzir a formação de radicais livres. Objetivo: Avaliar a atividade fotoprotetora e antioxidante de compostos fenólicos a partir da observação de resultados in vitro e verificar a importância do uso de modelos biológicos nessa perspectiva. Metodologia: Foi realizada uma pesquisa de artigos publicados, na base de dados Pubmed, entre 2010 e 2020, que atendessem aos objetivos deste trabalho, 44 artigos foram selecionados. Resultados: Os métodos instrumentais utilizados para avaliação da atividade fotoprotetora apresentaram boa correlação in vivo e mostram-se rápidos e eficazes na determinação do fator de proteção solar. Além desses, têm-se aplicado métodos biológicos para a avaliação de aspectos que não são mensurados por métodos físico-químicos, relacionado aos danos ao DNA, decorrentes da exposição solar. Para a avaliação da atividade antioxidante, o método do radical DPPH foi empregado em 92,6 % dos estudos analisados e foi observado que os antioxidantes podem incrementar a proteção solar e, ainda, auxiliar na estabilidade de filtros solares sintéticos. Conclusão: Os compostos fenólicos, especialmente aqueles com propriedades antioxidantes, podem ser utilizados como agentes fotoprotetores em formulações tópicas para reduzir os danos à pele induzidos pela radiação UV.

SUMMARY Introduction: Phenolic compounds, due to their chemical structure, can absorb ultraviolet energy and reduce the formation of free radicals. Aim: To evaluate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds from the observation of in vitro results and to verify the importance of the use of biological models in this perspective. Methodology: A search for articles published in the Pubmed database was carried out between 2010 and 2020, which met the objectives of this work, 44 articles were selected. Results: According to the literature, the instrumental methods used to assess independent photoprotective activity, good correlation in vivo, and demonstrating rapid and effective determination of the sun protection factor. In addition to these, biological methods have been provided for the evaluation of aspects not measured by physical-chemical methods, related to DNA damage, resulting from sun exposure. For the evaluation of antioxidant activity, the DPPH radical method was registered in 92.6 % of published studies and it was observed that antioxidants can increase sun protection and also help in the stability of synthetic sunscreens. Conclusion: Phenolic compounds, especially with antioxidant properties, can be used as photoprotective agents in topical formulations to reduce skin damage induced by UV radiation.

RESUMEN Introducción: Los compuestos fenólicos, por su estructura química, tienen la capacidad de absorber la energía ultravioleta y reducir la formación de radicales libres. Objetivo: Evaluar la actividad fotoprotectora y antioxidante de compuestos fenólicos a partir de la observación de resultados in vitro y comprobar la importancia del uso de modelos biológicos en esta perspectiva. Metodología: Se realizó una búsqueda de artículos publicados en la base de datos Pubmed entre 2010 y 2020, que cumplieron con los objetivos de este trabajo, se seleccionaron 44 artículos. Resultados: Los métodos instrumentales utilizados para evaluar la actividad fotoprotectora mostraron una buena correlación in vivo y demostraron ser rápidos y eficientes en la determinación del factor de protección solar. Además de estos, se aplicaron métodos biológicos para evaluar aspectos no medidos por métodos físico-químicos, relacionados con el daño en el ADN por exposición solar. Para la evaluación de la actividad antioxidante se utilizó el método radical DPPH en el 92,6% de los estudios analizados y se observó que los antioxidantes pueden aumentar la protección solar y también ayudar en la estabilidad de los protectores solares sintéticos. Conclusión: Los compuestos fenólicos, especialmente aquellos con propiedades antioxidantes, pueden utilizarse como agentes fotoprotectores en formulaciones tópicas para reducir el daño cutáneo inducido por la radiación UV.

Exposição solar e envelhecimento precoce em trabalhadores praianos do município de Salinópolis/PA / Solar exposure and early aging in beach workers of the municipality of Salinópolis/PA

Objetivo: Identificar a presença do envelhecimento precoce de pele em pescadores de Salinópolis/PA. Métodos: A pesquisa foi realizada com 275 pescadores, de 18 a 59 anos, no período de março a maio de 2016, sendo aplicados dois questionários: "Protocolo de Avaliação Facial ­ PAF" e "Hábitos de exposição e fotoproteção solar", ambos modificados pelas pesquisadoras. Resultados: Foi observada prevalência de trabalhadores praianos de 26 a 35 anos (36%), pele parda (70%), fototipo III (64%) e com a presença de fotoenvelhecimento (61%), que se expunham diariamente ao sol (97%), não possuíam cuidados com a pele (91%) e não usavam protetor solar (92%). Os voluntários relataram que não gostavam de aplicar protetor solar (59%) e desconheciam que a radiação ultravioleta causava envelhecimento da pele (60%), manchas na pele (54%) ou câncer (56%). Conclusão: A maioria dos pescadores não utilizavam fotoprotetores e apresentavam fotoenvelhecimento com predisposição a desenvolver câncer de pele. (AU)

Objective: To identify the presence of precocious skin aging in fishermen in Salinópolis/PA. Methods: The research was carried out with 275 fishermen, from 18 to 59 years of age, from March to May 2016. Two questionnaires were applied: "Facial Evaluation Protocol ­ PAF" and "Habits of exposure and solar photoprotection", both modified by the researchers. Results: The prevalence of beach workers from 26 to 35 years of age (36%), of brown skin (70%), phototype III (64%) and photoaging (61%), who were exposed daily to the sun (97%), did not have skin care (91%) and did not use sunscreen (92%). The volunteers reported that they did not like to apply sunscreen (59%) and were unaware that ultraviolet radiation caused skin aging (60%), skin blemishes (54%) or cancer (56%). Conclusion: Most fishermen did not use photoprotectors and presented photoaging with a predisposition to develop skin cancer. (AU)

Multifunctional photoprotection: corrective makeup for cutaneous dyschromias

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate a corrective and photoprotective makeup for patients with dyschromias. An emulsion was prepared and pigment mixtures were incorporated in the formulation, producing five shades of corrective makeup: BEIGE (I, II, III), BRONZE and TAN. The sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA/UVB ratio of the corrective makeup were determined using spectrophotometry with a Labsphere® analyser. The spreadability, occlusivity, stability, and photostability of the photoprotective formulations were also evaluated. For all formulations there was no statistical difference among them (p > 0.05) in terms of spreadability, occlusivity and SPF. They were considered to be photostable under solar radiation, with variations in SPF value and UVA/UVB ratio lower than 20%. The corrective makeup presented average-to-high UVB photoprotection and broad spectrum photoprotection. After 90 days, pH, density and SPF values showed no significant differences among formulations (p>0.05). All corrective makeup presented separation of the pigments, however, they returned to a homogeneous aspect and to the original color shade after shaking. The corrective makeup presented a fine texture, little brightness, and a homogeneous, dry-to-the-touch aspect. This work may benefit patients with dyschromias, improving their quality of life, besides promoting photoprotection and covering the skin blemishes

Perfil dos filtros solares utilizados nos fotoprotetores no Brasil / Photoprotectors profile in Brazilian sunscreens

Introdução: Filtros solares são os ingredientes ativos dos protetores solares capazes de promover proteção contra as radiações ultravioleta. O mercado tem oferecido um número crescente desses ingredientes, tornando a fórmula dos fotoprotetores cada vez mais variada. Objetivo: Listar os principais filtros solares que fazem parte das formulações à venda no Brasil, assim como registrar a presença de outros ingredientes dos protetores solares. Métodos: Os autores visitaram quatro farmácias da cidade do Rio de Janeiro, (RJ), Brasil, e analisaram as fórmulas dos protetores solares com fator de proteção solar 30 encontrados. Os filtros solares encontrados nas formulações foram listados, e o percentual de cada um deles foi avaliado em relação ao total de todos os filtros presentes. A presença de extratos vegetais e antioxidantes também foi anotada. Resultados: Foram encontrados 30 fotoprotetores à venda com FPS 30 nos diferentes estabelecimentos, e todos foram analisados em sua composição. Neles havia 17 filtros solares, sendo o mais frequente nas formulações o dióxido de titânio, seguido pelo bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenol triazine. Conclusão: Este estudo apresenta o perfil dos filtros solares utilizados nos principais fotoprotetores à venda no Brasil e fornece dados para posterior avaliação de mudanças desse perfil ao longo dos anos, à medida que novos filtros solares sejam introduzidos no mercado.

Introduction: Photoprotectors are the active ingredients of sunscreens with the capability of protecting the skin against UV radiation. An increasing number of such photoprotection ingredients have been launched in the marketplace, causing sunscreens' formulas to become increasingly varied. Objective: To list the main active photoprotection ingredients contained in formulations commercially available in Brazil, as well as to document the presence of other ingredients contained in sunscreens. Methods: The authors inspected four drugstores in the city of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and analyzed the formulas of the SPF 30 sunscreens available. The active photoprotector substances found in all formulations were listed and the percentage of each of them was compared to those contained in all sunscreens evaluated. The presence of plant extracts and antioxidants was also documented. Results: Thirty commercially available SPF 30 sunscreens were found in different drugstores, having their formulas analyzed. Within this sample, there were 17 different active photoprotection principles, of which titanium dioxide was the most frequently found, followed by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Conclusion: The present study lists the profiles of photoprotection active principles found in the main sunscreens on sale in Brazil and provides data for further evaluation of changes in these profiles over time, as new sunscreens are launched in the marketplace.

A importância da atuação do médico do trabalho na prevenção do câncer de pele ocupacional / The relevance of the occupational physician in the prevention of occupational skin cancer

Contexto: Este artigo apresenta uma revisão bibliográfica sobre o câncer de pele no meio ocupacional, a epidemiologia e os filtros solares para o médico do trabalho. Objetivo: Orientar o médico do trabalho sobre o assunto e melhorar as estratégias de prevenção do câncer de pele ocupacional. Métodos: Artigo retirado de monografia realizada após pesquisa bibliográfica em sites de artigos médicos e de órgãos relacionados à saúde e ao trabalho, utilizando artigos de 2009 a 2014 e publicações relevantes sobre o assunto. Conclusão: O médico do trabalho é fundamental na educação sobre a doença e suas diversas formas de prevenção, além da notificação dos casos relacionados ao trabalho.

Background: The present article presents a literature review on occupational skin cancer, its epidemiology and sunscreens of interest to occupational physicians. Aim: To provide a guide to occupational physicians on the subject of interest and improve the strategies for prevention of occupational skin cancer. Methods: The present article derives from an essay resulting from research in websites of medical articles and agencies related to healthcare and work; articles from 2009 to 2014 and relevant publications on the subject were analyzed. Conclusion: Occupational physicians are fundamental for education on occupational skin cancer and its various forms of prevention, in addition to the notification of cases.

O conhecimento e a utilização de filtro solar por profissionais da beleza / Level of awareness and the adequate application of sunscreen by beauticians

Resumo O objetivo desta pesquisa foi verificar o nível de instrução dos profissionais da área de estética em relação à utilização de filtro solar, e também identificar as orientações que estes passam aos seus pacientes. O estudo foi exploratório-descritivo, adotando a metodologia qualitativa ao entrevistar 30 profissionais da área. A coleta de dados foi feita por entrevistas semiestruturada na cidade de Maringá (PR). Os dados foram tratados com o software Atlas.ti a partir análise qualitativa e categorização das respostas. Dos entrevistados, 83,33% possuíam graduação em Estética, 20% participaram de atividade de formação continuada sobre o assunto, 73,17% adquirem o protetor solar pela qualidade, e 86,67% não conhecem filtros solares com componentes antirradicais livres naturais. Dos entrevistados, 80% nunca atenderam pacientes com câncer de pele, porém mencionaram ter conhecimento sobre os cuidados em relação à exposição solar e à forma de utilização do filtro solar e a relação dessas práticas com a doença. Os resultados mostraram que a indicação e o uso de filtro solar por profissionais da beleza vêm ocorrendo de maneira adequada e consciente.

Abstract The scope of this research was to establish the level of awareness of beauticians regarding the importance of the application of sunscreen and to identify whether their patients had been properly instructed by these professionals. It involved a descriptive and exploratory study with interviews applying qualitative methodology among 30 beauticians. Data were gathered using the semi-structured interview technique in Maringá, in the southern state of Paraná. The data were analyzed using Atlas.ti software after applying quantitative analysis and response classification. Of those interviewed, 83.33% had a degree in Aesthetics, 20% attended ongoing training activities on sunscreen and 73.17% acquired sunscreen for its quality, though 86.67% were not familiar with sunscreens with natural anti-free radical components. Of those interviewed, 80% had never treated patients with skin cancer, though they reported having knowledge of care in relation to sun exposure and how to use the sunscreen and the relationship of these practices with the disease. The results showed that the recommendations and use of sunscreen by beauticians and users has been conducted in an adequate and conscientious manner.

Práticas de exposição e proteção solar de jovens universitários / Prácticas de exposición y protección solar de jóvenes universitários / Exposure and sun protection practices of university students

RESUMO Objetivo: conhecer práticas de exposição e proteção solar de jovens universitários. Método: estudo descritivo, transversal, realizado em uma universidade de São Paulo. Resultados: a amostra foi composta por 385 jovens e a coleta de dados realizada por meio de formulário. Do total, 239 (62%) jovens classificaram-se como fototipo III e IV e 69 (17,9%) afirmaram ter histórico de câncer de pele na família. A maioria afirmou exposição ao sol entre as 10 e 16 horas e por mais de uma hora de duração; 112 (29,1%) informaram não empregar meios de proteção. Dentre os que utilizam protetor solar, a minoria o faz regularmente. Conclusão: embora a amostra tenha sido constituída por pessoas com maior acesso a informações, constatou-se exposição e proteção solar de modo impróprio. Ações educativas, individuais e coletivas devem ser fortalecidas e priorizadas tendo em vista a incidência de câncer de pele no país.

RESUMEN Objetivo: conocer las prácticas de exposición y de protección solar de jóvenes universitarios. Método: estudio descriptivo, transversal, realizado en una universidad de São Paulo. Resultados: la muestra estuvo constituida por 385 jóvenes y la colecta de datos realizada a través de formulario. Del total, 239 (62%) jóvenes fueron clasificados como tipo de piel III y IV y 69 (17,9%) afirmaron tener cáncer de piel en la historia familia. La mayoría afirma exposición al sol entre las 10 y 16 horas y durante más de una hora; 112 (29,1%) reportaron no emplear métodos de protección. Entre los que usan protector solar, la minoría lo hace regularmente. Conclusión: a pesar de que la muestra haya sido constituída por personas con mayor acceso a informaciones, se constató exposición y protección solar de manera impropia. Acciones educativas, individuales y colectivas deben fortalecerse y priorizarse teniendo en cuenta la incidencia de cáncer de piel en el país.

ABSTRACT Objective: to learn exposure and sun protection practices for university students. Method: a descriptive, cross-sectional study performed at a university in São Paulo. Results: the sample consisted of 385 young and data collection conducted through a form. Of the total, 239 (62%) young people were classified as skin type III and IV and 69 (17.9%) affirmed to have a history of skin cancer in the family. Most affirmed exposure to the sun between 10 a.m and 04 p.m and for more than one hour; 112 (29.1%) informed not employ safeguards. Among those who use sunscreen, the minority does so regularly. Conclusion: although the sample was made up of people with greater access to information, it was found exposure and sunscreen improperly. Education, individual and collective actions should be strengthened and prioritized given the incidence of skin cancer in the country.

Fotoprotectores: perfil de seguridad / Photoprotectors: safety profile

La incidencia de cáncer de piel ha aumentado en las últimas décadas en forma sostenida, lo que hace imprescindible la expansión en el conocimiento y aplicación de las medidas de prevención del daño producido por la exposición solar en la piel. Dentro de ellas está el uso de los protectores solares o fotoprotectores. Estos productos comerciales deben cumplir con una serie de requisitos para ser confiables, principalmente en su eficacia y seguridad para los seres humanos, pero también en provocar un daño mínimo a otros organismos vivos y al medio ambiente.

Skin cancer incidence rises continuosly. It is of primary importance to know about skin cancer prevention and how to do it well. One of the prevention tools is the use of sunscreens. This commercial products must be effective and safety for human use, for other living organisms and the environmental.

Exposição e proteção solar dos estudantes de medicina de Curitiba (PR) / Sun exposure and protection among medical students in curitiba (PR)

Trata-se de estudo observacional de corte transversal que teve como objetivo analisar a exposição e proteção solar de estudantes de Medicina de Curitiba (PR), através de questionário autoaplicado, comparando os resultados entre alunos de ambos os sexos que tiveram ou não intervenção da disciplina de Dermatologia. Análise estatística pelo Teste Exato de Fisher e Qui-Quadrado. Amostra composta de 398 estudantes com perfil sociodemográfico caracterizado principalmente por mulheres (54,9%), brancas, predominando a média de 23,8 anos. A maioria cursou a disciplina de Dermatologia (72,1%) e possui conhecimentos básicos sobre fotoproteção (65,3%). Quanto às práticas de exposição solar, os horários preferidos foram após 16 horas (55%) e entre 10-16 horas (23,3%), com uso diário de protetor solar (36,5%) e fator de proteção 30 ou superior (65,5%). Em relação aos riscos individuais para carcinomas cutâneos, 61,2% se enquadraram nos fototipos II e III de Fitzpatrick. Histórico familiar de câncer de pele ocorreu em 24,6% nos avós e/ou pais. Entre as mulheres que cursaram a disciplina de Dermatologia, verificou-se aplicação diária de fotoprotetor mais vezes ao dia e com fator de proteção solar mais alto.

This observational cross-sectional study aims to analyze exposure to the sun and solar protection measures among medical students in Curitiba (PR), by means of a self-administered questionnaire, comparing the outcomes among students of both sexes, with or without the benefit of studying Dermatology. Statistical analysis was conducted using Fisher’s exact and Chi-square tests. The sample consisted of 398 students, characterized mainly by women (54.9%), a white socio-demographic profile, with a predominant average age of 23.8 years. Most of them studied at the Department of Dermatology (72.1%) and had basic knowledge of sun protection (65.3%). For their reported practices of sun exposure, the preferred times were after 4:00 p.m. (55%) and between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. (23.3%), with daily use of sunscreen (36.5%) and one with a protection factor of 30 or more (65.5%). Regarding individual risk to cutaneous carcinomas, 61.2% fell within skin types II and III Fitzpatrick. A family history of skin cancer was reported in 24.6% of cases among grandparents and/or parents. Female Dermatology students reported the twice daily application of sunscreen of higher sun protection factor.

In vitro assessment of commercial sunscreens available in Latin America / Valoración in vitro de protectores solares comerciales existentes en Latinoamérica

In Latin America, people have largely abandoned the practice of wearing hats and traditional clothing that provided skin protection. Sunscreen application has therefore become essential to protect against the increased sun exposure. The physician-prescribed medical-grade sunscreens provide sufficient sun protection but the requirement for regular use puts a financial burden on the patient that is often not sustainable. An appropriate sunscreen should provide a high and broad ultraviolet (UV) protection against UVB and UVA. Several over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreens have been developed for sale at affordable prices and are available for purchase in convenient locations, such as local grocery stores. The aim of this study was to assess the in vitro UV protection of 34 popular OTC sunscreens found in the Latin American market. UV absorbance/transmittance was quantified by diffusion transmission spectroscopy using coarse silica plaques. Photostability was tested by irradiating them with simulated solar light and calculating the sun protection factor (SPF), critical length of absorption (C λ ), UVA/UVB ratio, and the spectral uniformity index (SUI). The results indicated that the in vitro SPFs were significantly lower than the value declared on the labels, particularly for those claiming high SPF values; however, the majority of these sunscreens offered high levels of UV protection. Considering the advantages of low cost and ample accessibility, we concluded that this sample of OTC sunscreens can be beneficial to the general public by providing some level of skin protection from solar radiation, and may be promoted to improve compliance with recommended photoprotection behavior.

En Latinoamérica, la población ha abandonado la costumbre de usar sombrero y ropa tradicional para protegerse del sol. En consecuencia, es básico el uso de protectores solares si se realizan actividades bajo sol. Los protectores solares que se usan en la práctica médica son adecuados, pero su uso frecuente condiciona una carga económica que muchos pacientes no pueden solventar debido a sus costos considerables. Un protector apropiado contiene una amplia y elevada protección ultravioleta (UV) A y B. En las tiendas de conveniencia, existen numerosos protectores solares a precios más accesibles. El objetivo del estudio fue determinar la protección UV in vitro de 34 protectores solares con amplia presencia comercial (de venta sin prescripción médica) en el mercado latinoamericano. La absorbancia/transmitancia de la radiación UV se cuantificó mediante espectroscopía de transmisión difusa. Placas de sílice esmerilado fueron recubiertas con el producto y expuestas a radiación solar simulada para conocer su fotoestabilidad. Se calcularon índices como el factor de protección solar (SPF), longitud crítica de absorción (C λ), relación UVA/UVB y el índice de uniformidad espectral (SUI). Se encontró que el SPF in vitro fue inferior al establecido en las etiquetas, especialmente en aquellos con valores altos. No obstante, la mayoría de los protectores incluidos ofrecen niveles de protección UV elevados. Considerando su amplia accesibilidad y menor costo, concluimos que esta muestra comercial de protectores solares podría utilizarse en el entorno clínico para favorecer su apego junto a las otras medidas de fotoprotección sugeridas.

Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as açai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The açai's fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing açai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

Euterpe oleracea Mart. é uma palmeira popularmente conhecida como açaí, encontrada no norte do Brasil. O fruto do açaí apresenta em sua composição antocianinas, uma classe de polifenóis à qual é atribuída propriedade antioxidante. Os objetivos desse trabalho foram desenvolver emulsões fotoprotetoras O/A contendo extrato glicólico de açaí (AGE), avaliar a estabilidade física e avaliar a eficácia fotoprotetora. Emulsões contendo AGE e filtros solares foram formuladas utilizando diferentes tipos e concentrações de tensoativo polimérico (acrilates/C 10-30 alquil acrilato polímero cruzado e polilacrilato sódico). A influência de dois modificadores reológicos (poliacrilamida (e) C13-14/isoparafina (e) Laureth-7 e Carbomer) na estabilidade foi avaliada. A estabilidade física das emulsões foi avaliada por meio de estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Emulsões com 1,0% poliacrilato sódico foram estáveis, exibiram comportamento não-newtoniano pseudoplástico e tixotrópico. A eficácia fotoprotetora foi avaliada pelo teste in vivo de Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) e pela determinação do Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). Quando adicionado o AGE na emulsão contendo filtros solares, não se observou aumento significativo no valor do FPS. A emulsão contendo o AGE apresentou FP-UVA=14,97, a razão FPS/FP-UVA = 1,69 e o comprimento de onda crítico igual a 378 nm, podendo ser considerado um protetor solar com proteção UVA e UVB.

Lupus eritematoso discoide crónico hipertrófico / Hypertrophic chronic discoid lupus erythematosus

El lupus eritematoso discoide crónico hipertrófico (LEDCH) es una variedad poco frecuente del lupus eritematoso discoidecrónico (LEDC) y se manifiesta con lesiones hiperqueratósicas que comprometen áreas fotoexpuestas. Generalmente el cursoclínico está marcado por la cronicidad y resistencia al tratamiento. Presentamos una paciente con lesiones de LEDCH querespondió satisfactoriamente al tratamiento con fotoprotección, corticoides tópicos y sistémicos y antimaláricos. Las lesiones desaparecieron, dejando secuelas pigmentarias residuales.

Hypertrophic chronic discoid lupus erythematosus (LEDCH) is a rare variety of chronic discoid lupus erythematosus (LEDC)characterized by hyperkeratotic lesions that compromise photoexposed areas. Clinical course is marked by chronicity andtreatment resistance. A female patient with LEDCH successfully treated with photoprotection, topical and systemic corticosteroidsand antimalarials is presented. Lesions disappeared leaving residual pigmentary sequelae.

Contact allergy to topical corticosteroids and sunscreens.

Topical corticosteroids and sunscreens are extensively used formulations, both as over-the-counter products and as prescription medicines. Topical corticosteroids are increasingly being recognized as causes of allergic contact dermatitis. Because of their anti-inflammatory property, contact allergy to these agents may be difficult to suspect and prove. With corticosteroid allergy, there are special issues in patch testing that need to be considered: Screening tests need to be done with budesonide and tixocortol pivalate, and delayed readings are essential to pick up all positive cases. Preventive advice needs to be tailored according to the structural and chemical peculiarities of a particular molecule. Sunscreen allergy is a significant part of cosmetic allergy; especially in cases of photoallergic reactions. Each passing decade is bringing forth new allergens in this class. In many countries, benzophenones have recently been replaced by octocrylene as the leading causes of contact dermatitis to sunscreens. This article provides a broad overview of corticosteroid and sunscreen allergy so that the readers are aware of these important emerging classes of allergens.

The development of efficient sunscreens.

Skin exposure to acute or repetitive ultraviolet light induces risks which are now well identified. An efficient photoprotection is thus required for both UVB and UVA radiation. In particular, increasing evidence of the detrimental effects of UVA on skin has led to the development of a new generation of sunscreens that provide effective protection throughout the whole UV radiation spectrum. Many new UV filters have been introduced in the last decade, particularly UVA filters, with improved efficacy and safety. Sunscreen filters must be carefully combined to achieve esthetically pleasing products offering photostable and well-balanced photoprotection.

Need for a well-balanced sunscreen to protect human skin from both Ultraviolet A and Ultraviolet B damage.

Skin exposure to sunlight can cause many adverse effects. It is now recognized that both Ultraviolet A (UVA) and UVB wavelengths are responsible for the detrimental effects of solar radiation on skin. With our increasing knowledge on the harmful effects of UVA, the need for effective, well-balanced photoprotection has become more crucial. Numerous clinical studies showed that well-balanced sunscreen, with a SPF/UVAPF ratio ≤ 3, provide the most effective protection against pigmentation (especially on dark skin), DNA damage, UV-induced skin immunosuppression and photodermatoses. The calculation of UVA protection required in Asia revealed its particular importance in India, and gives clear evidence that the SPF value alone is not sufficient to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen.

Solar ultraviolet radiation induces biological alterations in human skin in vitro: Relevance of a well-balanced UVA/UVB protection.

Cutaneous damages such as sunburn, pigmentation, and photoaging are known to be induced by acute as well as repetitive sun exposure. Not only for basic research, but also for the design of the most efficient photoprotection, it is crucial to understand and identify the early biological events occurring after ultraviolet (UV) exposure. Reconstructed human skin models provide excellent and reliable in vitro tools to study the UV-induced alterations of the different skin cell types, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes in a dose- and time-dependent manner. Using different in vitro human skin models, the effects of UV light (UVB and UVA) were investigated. UVB-induced damages are essentially epidermal, with the typical sunburn cells and DNA lesions, whereas UVA radiation-induced damages are mostly located within the dermal compartment. Pigmentation can also be obtained after solar simulated radiation exposure of pigmented reconstructed skin model. Those models are also highly adequate to assess the potential of sunscreens to protect the skin from UV-associated damage, sunburn reaction, photoaging, and pigmentation. The results showed that an effective photoprotection is provided by broad-spectrum sunscreens with a potent absorption in both UVB and UVA ranges.

Protetores solares / Sunscreens

Mudanças na regulação dos protetores solares sugerem novas discussões sobre metodologias de avaliação da eficácia e como os novos filtros solares demonstram sua influência no desempenho dos produtos. Neste artigo os autores iniciam uma discussão sobre a necessidade de proteção contra os raios infravermelhos e revisam os fundamentos de sustentação do desenvolvimento de protetores solares estáveis e eficientes.

Comparison between three detective methods of sun protection factor for sunscreen in vivo / 中华医学美学美容杂志

Objective To investigate the three methods for sun protection factor determination in vivo in Chinese under the same condition, and to evaluate the feasibility and reliability of the three methods. Methods There were 45 healthy volunteers in Guangzhou area were involved in the study. All of them were randomly divided into three groups. Among them 15 volunteers were in the current method group, 5 volunteers in the simplified method group, and 25 volunteers were in the single-exposure method group. Two standard sunscreens of SPF 4 and SPF 15 and one sunscreen labeled as SPF 20 were tested by all the three methods in the study. Two experienced observers read results, respectively, under the same conditions. Results The volunteers in the current method group received the largest dose of UV light.The simple method was next to it and the single-exposure reduced 4-5 folds of UV dose received. The results of the two observers in the current method group and the single-exposure group were very close. But the test results of P3 were not completely coincident between the two observers in the simplified method group. SPFs value of the three sunscreens were 4. 12, 16.09, and 22.60 obtained by the observer 1 and 4. 18, 15.92, and 21.97 obtained by the observer 2, respectively. In the simplified method group, SPFs values of ＜4, ＞15, ＞20 and ＜4, ＜15, ＞20 were obtained by the two observers. In the single-exposure method group, SPFs values of the three sunscreens were 4.04, 15.34, 21.33 by the observer 1 and 3. 96, 15.82, 21.33 by the observer 2, respectively. Conclusion The single-exposure method is convenient and easily to operate and may replace the current method some day. The simple method is not valuable in determination of SPF labeled on the packages of sunscreens, but may be useful in supervision of the market sunscreen products.